Here is a fantastic map of
California with incredible detail from the California Department of Tourism. And, best
of all, it is printable because it is in the Adobe PDF format. The file is pretty big
though (about 956K). (Note: If you are using Internet Explorer, you may
want to right click on the hyperlink and choose "Save Target As" rather than
click on it directly. This way the image will be downloaded and saved to file rather than
appear embedded within your browser.)
If you are interested in a web generated map and want a fine level of control on how the
map is generated, a nice free service is the Tiger Mapping Service - a project
of the U.S. Bureau of Census.